We had no ghosts to bury just a curiosity for a country, and its people, we had touched briefly many years ago. Back then it was fun, mad, intense and we gave several RSM’s a few sleepless nights. So for a period of three weeks in July-August we travelled to Hanoi, down the length of the country to Saigon and on to Vung Tau.

Our trip began up north, in Hanoi during the summer heat. The city of Hanoi has an air of decaying graciousness and elegance with its wide, tree lined streets and its ochre painted French colonial buildings. There was no evidence of American bombing, the population has rebuilt and life goes on.

Everywhere in Vietnam it seemed that everyone had something to sell; postcards, gum, cyclo or motorbike rides. The offers sometimes became irritating but gave us an opportunity to stop and talk to the people. Westerners still stand out and are viewed with curiosity by the locals, though a smile and a nod from us would usually elicit a greeting.

Ha Long Bay, to the east of Hanoi, was a highlight of the trip. We spent three days cruising the fantastic coves, islands and grottos, in both torrential rain and brilliant sunshine. Boats, with a three man crew, can be hired from Bai Chay for a few dollars and will stay out for as long you can afford. The caves on some of the islands are relatively undeveloped but are amongst the most spectacular I have seen.

Getting from A to B, in Vietnam, is a headache. We did not take domestic flights as we wanted to see some of the landscape. So from Ha Long Bay, back to Hanoi, we were crammed into a 24 seater bus; all 35 of us plus bags of rice and other produce. It was a hot, bone grinding, five hour trip and from that point on we hired private cars or tourist mini buses.

The main highway is a nightmare, barely five or six metres wide, it carries bicycles, people on foot, cars and trucks going in both directions. The condition of the highway was appalling and in many places rice, coconuts and chilies could be seen drying on the edge of the road. Short trips take hours and become very uncomfortable. The number of near misses left you a nervous wreck, hiding under the seat and all drivers spend of their time leaning on the horn.

The coastal plain, down to Hue, is spectacular. The green of the rice paddies intense, but in contrast some areas of the countryside are quite arid. Everywhere there are forests of eucalyptus which made us feel at home. Hue with its citadel and Perfumed River, is also very beautiful and the day spent visiting the Nguyen Tombs, by boat, was interesting and surprising in its richness.

Continuing southward, we stopped at the Hai Van Pass with spectacular views overlooking Danang Bay. We tried to imagine it, thirty years ago, filled with American shipping and troops. Remains of the buoys and bunkers can still be seen.

Hoi An is a small coastal town, south of Danang, with its remnants of colonial architecture, markets, temples and bustling river traffic, this town must be on every travellers list of favorite places  in Vietnam. The great food, a cold beer and a day at the beach were a welcome respite from the chore of traveling. Hoi An is a great place to relax, take a stroll, buy silk, paintings or other Vietnamese crafts.

Nha Trang was not very appealing as a destination, but the offshore islands offered a day of swimming and good snorkeling in warm blue waters. Saigon (Ho Chi Min City) is brash, mad, loud and ‘in your face’. Getting across the street requires nerves of steel and lots of attitude, whatever you do - Don’t stop, flinch or run!

From Saigon, to Vung Tau (our old stamping ground), is a very fast, 75 minute, comfortable ride in a hydrofoil. Vung Tau was hardly recognizable, but the beach area still felt like old ‘Vungers’. The market is still in its square, surrounded by shops (weren’t they bars?). The road, along the Roches Noir, to the point has been enlarged to four lanes and continues along the back beach (Bai Sau) to service all the multistory hotels, resorts, shops and restaurants, now crowding the beach front.

The Grand Hotel has been renovated by the Russians and is tacky and ugly. Pink vinyl has been laid on the staircase over the original tiles. However, the hotel still has the best view over the front beach.

We hired cyclos to take us to the back beach to try and find the old 1^st Australian Field Hospital site. The drivers took us to what they said was the old Aussie Base, but it didn’t feel right. We continued further along the road and spotted the remains of the old diving board and the Harold Holt Memorial Pool, next to the Sammy Hotel, by an old rusting water tower. It is sad that this one remnant of our stay has fallen into such disrepair. The beach opposite is now crammed with deck chairs and beach umbrellas, all for hire, and hawkers of all kinds. The water is still pleasant, but there was no surf to enliven our visit.

Once we found the Badcoe Club site, and made the assumption that new roads may have been laid over old ones, we were able to backtrack and locate the approximate position of the West Gate, the hospital, the boozer and the officers and OR’s lines. Nothing recognizable remains! Twenty five years on, it has all changed, just as we have. The Onassis wreck has gone from the point, but high above is a giant Jesus, built in 1974. The view from its shoulder (you can climb up inside) gives some idea of how much Vung Tau has changed and grown.

It was great to go back for a taste of this vibrant Asian culture. We were most impressed with the warmth and generosity of the people, their eagerness to speak English and learn about Australia, in spite of the past and the grinding poverty in which most of them live.